The first stop was Bansko. I booked us into the Kempinski hotel since my parents were paying and I got to choose the hotels. They actually had a good “Pay for 2 Nights Get the 3rd Night Free” deal so it wasn’t that bad. The key here is we got free use of the spa (pool, hot tub, sauna, etc.). Of course, although the Kempinksi is a 5-Star hotel – regardless of its international reputation – it’s still a 5-Star hotel in Bulgaria. Accordingly, the electricity went out several times. They had a backup generator, but strangely none of the room bathroom lights were hooked up to it. Good thing I wasn’t using the facilities during any of the outages. The lights in the spa, however, were hooked up to the generator so we see where the priorities lie. Also the shower didn’t drain properly and the bathtub drain was broken (there was a seperate tub and shower in the bathroom). In the Kempinski’s defence, the staff fixed the problems when I complained. We used Bansko for the staging area for visiting Southwest Bulgaria.

On the way to Bansko we stopped at Rila Monastary – my 3rd trip there. The next day we went to Melnik which I had never been to. It is a quaint little village which is becoming less and less quaint as more and more building is happening there.

During the Melnik trip we decided to see another monastary about 10 km down the road. We came upon a church which I thought might be the monastary. We got out, looked around and when we got back into the rental car it wouldn’t start. I had rented a diesel VW Polo for the trip. We were on a hill so I tried coasting down and popping the clutch to no avail. We made it down to the small village at the bottom of the hill by coasting. The car would try to turn over, but when I turned the key none of the instrument gauges moved including the gas guage. I thought perhaps the gauge was broken and we had run out of gas. I talked to a local guy in town and he called someone in Melnik to bring some diesel out to the car. An hour later he showed up, I poured in the gas and the results were the same. The car would try to turn, but wouldn’t start and the instrument panel wouln’t light up. At this point the town started to get interested. Before long we had 5 guys all trying to figure out what was wrong with the car. We pushed the car up the hill a couple times to try and pop the clutch – all in vain. Finally I called the rental car company to complain and they said I needed to lock and unlock the car before it would start. Sure enough this was it. If you left the car unlocked for more than a few minutes some kind of security feature would activate that wouldn’t let you start the car until you locked them unlocked the car with the automatic RF lock.

This is the most retarded accessory to a car I have ever seen. How often do I get out of the car to go to the bathroom, get gas, look at something beside of the road, etc. – all things that don’t require me to lock the car. The answer, as I learned, is often. Well, I had to lock the car if I did any of these actions or it wouldn’t start. The entire rest of the trip had me constantly get out and lock and unlock the car before it would start. What happens if the battery in your little keychain lock dies. You’re screwed is the answer. Another example of how technology makes things worse rather than better. Not to vent entirely at VW – of course the rental company didn’t tell me this key piece of information. Of course they didn’t put the car manual in the car. Typical Bulgarian customer service.

We spend one day at Bansko and drove up to the ski area. They are building like crazy all over Bansko. What was once a small town is rapidly turning into a huge resort. Even from when I was there this past winter there are dozens of huge new apartment complexes going up. Up on the resort they were working on new trails and facilities as well.

From Bansko we drove to Plovdiv through an impressive gorge. On the way we must have passed through one of the Muslim regions on Bulgaria because we passed several small towns with mosques.

We spend the afternoon at Plovdiv then drove back to Sofia.

The next day we headed off to Veliko Turnovo. We stayed in the Gurko Hotel which I have heard good things of and all were true. Our room was on the top floor and had a great view of the river.

After VT we headed to Varna for a night. It took us a few minutes to find the hotel, but eventually got there and, again, had a great room with a view of the large Cathedral there. We walked around some of the extensive pedestrian streets of Varna before walking along the Black Sea shore for a while. We managed to see a wedding happening in the Cathedral while we were visiting. Interestingly, they didn’t close the Cathedral to visiters during the wedding so crowds of people were coming and going during the ceremony.

The next stop was Nesebar for a couple hours before continuing on to Sozopol where we were able to stay free in my landlord’s apartment. This was my 4th time to Sozopol, but my first in the off season. The town was nearly a ghost town with almost every shop and restaurant closed. It was very strange to see the town like this. The apartment was near a soccer field and we were able to catch Sozopol play Nesebar. Nesebar had the upper hand in that game.

Finally we drove back to Sofia and spend a day visiting several churches, the art museum, the ethnographic museum and a few shops for my mother to buy misc. Bulgarian stuff.

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My birthday dinner party.

Climbing up a tower in Tsaravets. Notice the safety features installed on the structure including wide steps, outside safety railings and warning signs. OSHA would be proud.

Tsaravets fortress in Veliko Turnovo

The three of us on Shipka Pass

Monument on Shipka Pass

View from the Hash House Harriers run.

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Within hours of Jen and Jeff arriving in Bulgaria last Saturday (July 8th) I carted them to the AmCham (American Chamber of Commerce) 4th of July party (held on the 8th of July to fall on a weekend). This gave them a “soft landing” to Bulgaria by carting them to an event full of Americans. We soon got right into the heart of Bulgaria. I rented a VW Polo for the week so we could drive around and see some of the country. VW Polo’s are great cars for driving on mountain roads. They are small, agile, and almost guaranteed to get the backseat driver sick when driven properly (like a rally car). In fact, I earned the name “Rally Car Ryan” for the week due to my very professional driving skills …. err something like that.

The first order of business was to borrow camping equipment from my boss because our trip included a couple nights camping. However, this required a swap mid-country since my boss was on his was back from the sea when we were heading out into the country. We managed to coordinate the changeover near Stara Zagora (where we also stopped for lunch) then headed north to Veliko Turnovo (henceforth known at VT).

Our way to VT took us through Shipka Pass where a large monument stands with incredible views over the surrounding countryside. The monument was erected to honor those who died defending the pass during the Russo-Turkish War in 1877-1878. The Russians took the pass with the help of Bulgarian volunteers and proceeded to defend the pass from 30,000 Turkish soldiers despite being outnumbered 5 to 1. After a bit of picture taking at Shipka we continued on to VT.

I’ve already written about VT in one of my previous blogs so I won’t rehash old information. The only difference is that we stayed in a hostel (aptly named Low Costel Hostel) in the middle of town. The hostel was recently opened by a British guy. The hostel was small, but nice. We had the 6 bed bunk room to ourselves which was nice. The top floor of the hostel was a cool open area with a full kitchen and sitting pillows where we were able to relax and play some cards with the owner for a couple hours.

The next day we took another road back through the mountains (where I was again able to practice my rally car skills) and headed to Sozopol. Again, you can read about Sozopol in one of my previous posts. Instead of staying in Sozopol, we stayed at a campsite a couple km south of Sozopol called Kavatsite. The whole region was pounded with rain and floods only a week or so before we arrived and the beaches at the campsite fared better than the beaches in Sozopol so we chose correctly. We spent two nights at the campground. The camping experience is a little different from the US camping experience. There are no fires, but the campsites have electrical outlets you can plug into. So, instead of playing cards by the light of the campfire, we played cards by the light of a lightbulb (and a bright one at that). Wednesday was “Vitamin D” day (also called “Skin Cancer Day”) where we spent the afternoon relaxing in the sun and swimming in the (quite warm) Black Sea.

On Thursday morning we packed up and headed back inland – to Plovdiv. I had been to Plovdiv before, but I had never driven so I wasn’t sure exactly how to get to the old town. We drover around lost for a few minutes before I decided we could just walk to the top of the hill with the Russian soldier monument and see where the old town was. This plan worked (well, basically, we still had to make one stop to ask a policeman). We spent the afternoon walking around the old town part of Plovdiv while Jeff took dozens of pictures of crappy, falling apart buildings.

On Friday we drove down to Rila Monastery. Another great thing about the Polo is the great gas mileage. I was able to drive down to Rila and back (1 hr. 45 min. of driving each way) and still have the gas tank needle read “Full” meaning I could in good conscious return the rental car with the required full tank.

Friday night I had a surprise birthday dinner at Motto. Joel made the extra effort of walking over 10 blocks with an unboxed birthday cake (the cake company didn’t have boxes big enough for it) to the restaurant. The cake was Viennese chocolate and was pretty darn good.

Saturday afternoon involved a lot of souvenir shopping (or crap shopping, as I prefer to call it). Jen bought a nice load of crap to bring back with her to America. After a mid-afternoon nap we headed off to dinner then to the first of two parties. Party number one was a house party unrelated to my birthday hosted by one of the Hash House Harriers. We only stayed for a short while there. The next stop was the club Alcohol. Here we stayed until the wee hours of the morning before returning to collect Jen and Jeff’s bags and send them off to the airport – without any sleep (hey, they can sleep on the plane, right?).

All-in-all an excellent week and a great birthday. Pictures will be posted soon, but they’re spread over several cameras which are now located in different countries so it may take me a few days to consolidate them.

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I arrived around lunch time on Saturday and wandered around for a bit getting a feel for the town. There was a tourist information center, but it wasn’t opened on weekends – which makes sense because weekends are when most of the tourists would probably come. There were also several old houses built during the Ottoman rule and museums you could tour, but again, none of them were open on weekends.

I got lunch and wandered around looking for a place to stay. I eventually decided on a small hotel called the Comfort Hotel which was located towards the top of one of the hills in the old town. The hotel was small – maybe 10 rooms and reminded me of several of the other guest houses I had stayed at over the summer. From my window we could look across the hill to Tsaravets Hill where stood the ruins of a once large fortress from the middle ages. The rest of the town is quaint, but I think the expansive ruins are the main draw to the city. I planned to hit the ruins on Sunday – hopefully they would be open.

After dinner Saturday night I walked around looking for a place to grab a drink. After dark the town is pretty quiet. There were only a couple bars that looked populated so I picked one in the old town with a young crowd and decent music. I had a couple drinks before heading back to the hotel around midnight.

As some background – the history of Veliko Turnovo goes back to the 3rd century BC when Tsaravets Hill was first settled. The hill was fortified by the Romans in the 1st century and in the 5th century the Byzantines built a keep enclosing the small town on the hill. The town and fortification grew and eventually became the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire and the location of the royal palace. The Second Bulgarian Empire lasted from 1185 to 1393 – when the town was taken by the Ottoman Empire after a 3 month siege. They then burned the palace and fortifications to the ground. These are the ruins I could see from my room.

Sunday I walked town to the fortress. Luckily it was open and I was able to tour it for 4 leva (~$2.75) each. There is a long stone walkway to get to the main entrance. Once inside there are quite a lot of ruins of houses, churches, walls, etc. They had signs throughout the ruins noting various significant locations. Unfortunately the signs were in Bulgarian, Russian and German – but no English.

It looked as though several of the old fortifications were being renovated as to how they looked during the 12th century. These renovated parts were interesting because you could walk through them and on top of them to get a great view of the main city and some of the fortified cities ruins.

There was a large church at the top that had been fully restored. Although inside were some crazy modernistic religious paintings which I don’t think were very representative of 12th century art. I tried to get some pictures, but the woman working in the church started hassling me about having to pay to take pictures, something I didn’t want to do.

There were several buildings that looked like they were in various stages of being excavated throughout the complex. Unfortunately several of these areas were littered with water bottles and various other trash which degraded the overall impact of the site. If you looked over the walls you would see piles of bottles and trash as well. The ruins of the town weren’t that big, but there were sections where the brush had completely overgrown some of the old churches. I dug through some of the brush in one location to see a marked sign noting the date and number of the church that was slowly being crumbled by the young trees growing around it.

Bulgaria – you have a fantastic historical sight here and you seem to be doing a good job with renovations, but pick up the trash and trim back the brush! You don’t want your foreign tourists coming in and being turned off by an ancient building which is 1 meter deep in trash.

Overall I spent a couple hours touring the ruins before heading back to the car around mid-afternoon. The weather in Veliko Turnovo was fine (but cloudy) all weekend, but I had heard Sofia got some snow so I wanted to get back before the temperatures dropped back below freezing the roads became slick.

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